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Forums New posts Search forums. Media New media New comments Search media. Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts. Search forums. Log in. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Recipe of Catherine Failor. Thread starter biarine Start date Jun 27, Help Support SoapMakingForum:. Joined Dec 6, Messages Reaction score I am confuse with her recipe.

I don't know much superfat and seems the water is too. The Efficacious Gentleman Lifetime Supporter. Does the process go on to add in something else? The Efficacious Gentleman said:. Saranac Well-Known Member. Joined Apr 21, Messages Reaction score Location? Her formulas have a negative SF. The excess KOH needs to be neutralized after the paste is diluted. What you posted is just the paste; you'll need more water to dilute. The process for dilution is in the book, but I agree, it's not well organized--and hard to understand.

IrishLass and Susie have better tutorials on the forum. Dahila Well-Known Member. I got her book too and it was a waste of money, I went through it and never looked at it again. Will give away eventually. We have such teachers here we do not need the books they idea of making soap lye heave then neutralizing it , does not sit well with me.

Saranac said:. Dahila said:. I still have my copy and I do use it occasionally for reference. If there's something about the formula that you posted that intrigues you, you should try it.

With a slight SF, you don't need to bother neutralizing the soap. Off the top of my head, I think the tutorials by IL and Susie are cold process.

With the rosin, you'll have to use HP. CF speaks very highly of rosin, but in my opinion, a little goes a long way. It's still diluting--and I'll reserve judgement until it's finished--but so far, I'm just not impressed with the increased amount. It doesn't seem to lather as well. If you decide to try the recipe you posted, I'd be interested in hearing your results and opinion. I would suggest cutting that batch size down though. DeeAnna Well-Known Member.

If you start with the fats and rosin at the melt temp of the rosin and add lye solution that is also about the same temp, I suspect a cold process method of making this soap will work just fine, rosin or no rosin. In my experience, if my soap batter starts warm enough, it will continue to stay sufficiently warm just from the heat generated by saponification -- no extra heat is needed.

Rosin saponifies fast, so that will help keep the batter warm. DeeAnna said:. Okay, but in an earlier post you said, " With the rosin, you'll have to use HP Based on your latest response, I'm a bit confused why you earlier recommended an HP method if you yourself use a CP method. I've tried letting that mixture cool before adding the lye solution, but the rosin solidifies on the bottom of the pot and makes a mess. I realize that the OP stated that they make CP soap with rosin, and if it works, go for it.

But in my experience rosin has to be hot processed. Once I have waited minutes to let the rosin and KOH do their thing, the temperature of the blend in my pot and the remaining lye solution , are cooler, but still in the F realm. The rosin, at this point, no longer causes problems.

In fact the presence of soap in the mixture speeds things along. I stick blend, and finish like every other CP LS tutorial on the internet. I do apologize for any misunderstanding; I'm most likely confusing terminology, and I do apologize for that, but I've never come across a method and acronym for a "start like HP, but finish like CP". At least once a week my SO tells me that I give horrible instructions. I guess I can no longer argue that point.

Depending on the recipe, my starting ingredients may be quite warm or at room temp, but I don't define CP or HP on that basis. IMO, HP is any method that calls for cooking the soap batter until saponification is essentially complete, and then the finished soap is put into a mold. CP is any method in which actively saponifying soap batter is put into the mold. The saponification reaction goes to completion after the soap is in the mold.

Until you explained your perspective, I've never heard about putting a limit on the temperature of the starting ingredients as a division between HP and CP. From my perspective, if your soap goes into the mold while saponification is still actively going on, you are using a cold process method.

It makes no difference about how hot the starting ingredients are. I apologize for spreading misinformation and derailing this thread. Unfortunately, I only seem to be adding to the confusion. The end result is soap: it's clear, it lathers, and that's all I can hope for.

I don't mean to turn this into a wrangle about semantics -- I was simply confused. I've used rosin in soap as well and used a somewhat similar approach to making the soap as you did. You call it HP I call it CP Thank you for explaining your perspective so kindly and clearly, Saranac. I understand what you mean now. But semantics is important, and I muddied the waters.

And to the OP—so sorry to add to the confusion. You started this thread because you were confused and I spent the last few days rambling. The next time I volunteer any information, just nod your head knowingly and move on to the next post. I am new to liquid soap making and have never seen rosin mentioned in all the recipes I have looked at. What is it and what is it made from.? I would suppose it is available at all soap suppliers. Joined Jun 12, Messages 3 Reaction score 7.

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Making Cream Soap

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Cream Soap, Day One


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